Global Food Market offers taste of Africa

Whoa. It smells. Not a scent. Not an aroma. This smells. Like leather and old embers and - what? A little fishy.

Boxes and boxes of bony, deeply burnished fishes. Splayed chickens stacked in boxes, their color hovering between plain cardboard and dark leather.

On a recent visit to Pittsburgh, we had dinner at Abay in East Liberty (terrific, even if Ethiopian cuisine sometimes seems to be variations on a theme) and drove by Global Food Market as we parked.

Of course, it was imperative to return and explore.

There are two freezers (neither large), two refrigerated cases (ditto) and bags and stacks of assorted dried, smoked fish and chickens. Shelf-lined walls and one small center shelving unit - all crammed with boxes, cans, plastic bags (rice, lentils, beans, various flours).

Ogbonna Moses Onwubiko, a Nigerian immigrant, presides over this small market, doling out serving and cooking suggestions only if directly queried.

You'll learn first that Africa's food sources almost demand a huge amount of smoking and drying of protein.

You'll find small bites of prepared food and buns for sale, affording an opportunity to sample African-style snacks.

Onwubiko will assist in brand discernment, and politely remember to send you to his web site (www.globalfoodpittsburgh.com) where you can find everything available in the store and a range of videos and discs, too.

While there's plenty of fufu flour and dried plantains to be found, maybe start with bottled jerk seasoning. You can try it out next time you grill. Using the fufu flour will take more research.

Meanwhile, if you're looking for ukatzi leaves, find them here: www.globalfoodpittsburgh.com.

Can you "shop smart" without coupons?

Of course you can!

You may not rack up three-digit savings on a regular basis. On the other hand, you'll probably purchase more of what your family actually eats - and you won't be using expensive packages of "almost made" foods.

(After all, you can "help" your ground meat or tuna less expensively and nearly as easily as that package can.)*

But back to how to save at grocery shopping without becoming a major coupon-user.

First, you'll spend about as much time shopping as you do actually buying (and this will still be less time thanyou might spend clipping and filing coupons).

Here's why: to really be a smart shopper, you need to know your grocery stores, supermarkets and ethnic markets like you know your own pantry.

You need to develop a literal route from store to store, and you need to be mindful of what is best to purchase at which store.

This also means making sure you review the grocery store ads every week, and make sure you have storage space to accommodate those "two-fer" offers.

Second, make time to include an ethnic market or two in your usual shopping pattern. You'll find many items you can add or use instead of typical American brands to perk up your weekly menu planning.

If you can only access one or two stores with ease, you can still sharpen your skills by learning which store typically has better produce vs. better meats and poultry.

Who usually has dairy sales, who has sales on breads and pastas? Use a loyalty card for "card specific" savings, too.

Third, try store brands, which are often on sale in multiples.

If you can only use two of something that's being promoted as "five for only $x," ask if you can still get the per item sale price (if you have a loyalty card, you may well receive the lower price).

Watch for "manager's special" signs! You might find something close to a sell-by date that you can use immediately or freeze for another time (don't forget: "Sell by" does NOT mean that the food expires and becomes unfit for human consumption on that day!

Usually, such foods are fine to eat for as long as a week or more beyond that date, linger if you are able to freeze it immediately.

Finally, don't forget that coupons can be helpful. If you see one for a product your family typically uses or has on hand - grab it. You'll feel even smarter about your smart shopping.

Plus, you won't have spent hours combing pages on or off line for savings you know how to create with your own savvy shopping.

And another thing…

Pulling your family dinners out of the sameold-sameold rut can become majorly simplified if you're willing to incorporate even a few ingredients from any one of our ethnic markets.

Here's a big bonus: if you're a good grocery shopper* you will find unexpected bargains than can really add pizazz to your menus.

I was thinking about this just the other day. I stopped at Giado's World Market, a kind of pan-Middle Eastern market in the plaza at the southeast corner of Elliott and Dobson in Chandler.

I bought only four items: Two, two-pound containers of Byblos plain yogurt, 1/2 pound of Bulgarian feta cheese, and one package of frozen phyllo dough.

My total tab? Just barely over $9. That's right. I got change back from a 10 dollar bill.

Lest you are skeptical, let me assure you these are not discount-style food. The yogurt is thick, almost sweet. It's fabulous by itself, with a little honey drizzled over, or with fresh fruit. And it is terrific in cooked sauces as a sub for sour cream.

The feta is wonderful, alone, on crackers, or in sauces, maybe with a few hard sauteed tomatoes and shrimp.

As for the phyllo - it's going to turn into all sorts of things, literally appetizers to dessert!

This is a typical find.

At almost every ethnic market, you are likely to find high quality ingredients that you can use for breakfast, lunch or dinner at excellent prices.

At the Asian markets, you're also going to find extraordinary buys on produce, too - and not just on Asian-style fruits and vegetables. We'll talk more about this, too, in an upcoming post!

Meanwhile, think about a few of the foods you use most often in your day-to-day cooking. And consider taking a trip to one or more of our ethnic markets - you might be surprised at how and where you can trim your grocery bills.

If this sounds a like a little too much comparison shopping, just stay tuned.

We'll be back to tell you more.

*coming next: your basic guide to savvy grocery shopping: save dollars, time and even some sanity

India live! (well, that depends on how you mean this)

But this is definitely a fascinating stop.

Just east of Rural along the north side of Apache - and almost on top of the semi-luxurious light rail line - there sits India Plaza (Where India lives! - or so say the signs).

A mash-up mini-strip with a restaurant, grocery and boutique (everything from kitchen equipment to shaving needs and all you'll need in Bollywood's best), India Plaza could be your gateway to not just a new cuisine but also a full cultural experience.

Possibly the most amazing part of India Plaza's small grocery is the array of dal - lentils - available. In bulk. Pink, green, brown, black and several shades in between, if you like lentils, this is lentil paradise.

Besides the cook 'em yourself varieties, you will also find packages of lentils in nearly every format (except French-style). We're talking stews. Casserole-type side dishes. Soups. I think there might be a lentil drink in there, too, but then - didn't look that hard.

I haven't stopped at India Plaza for some years, and this is definitely a better-stocked emporium with a good variety of produce, spices, and jars and jars of pickles (who knew lime pickles came in so many forms???).

There are also two walls of freezer cases, stocked mostly with varieties of ice cream (mango! pistachio! and tooty-frooty which I am informed tastes interestingly of gardenias), along with Pillsbury samosas and an assortment of main dishes.

Aside from the ice creams, these are mostly a tad on the pricey side. However, since I stopped primarily to pick up information about upcoming cooking classes.

These include tours of the grocery, so students can learn exactly what spices, herbs and more they'll need.

I want to take the classes not only to learn about Indian cooking, but also to begin understanding more about how to incorporate the flavors of Indian cooking into our own foods. (One of my favorite recipes for cauliflower depends almost entirely on mustard seed and turmeric, so I know there have to be a lot of possibilities.)

So we'll do more on India Plaza in the near future. Meanwhile, you must try the mango ice cream.

How to shop ethnic

Let's agree that if you like to cook - especially if you enjoy using your kitchen to explore the world through food - you're going to appreciate shopping at ethnic markets.

You'll most easily find authentic ingredients, from spices to proteins to produce, at ethnic markets.

Let's also agree that simply walking into many of the Valley's ethnic markets can be a tad intimidating for many shoppers.

While many ethnic markets around Phoenix are relatively small, even many of these can present cultural challenges.

Store signs may well be in different languages, products and labels can be strange and confusing, and not only other shoppers but also many clerks will speak another language.

But if all you want to do is get family dinner on the table at a reasonable cost per person, ethnic markets will also offer one of the best ways to keep your food costs within your budget.

Many produce departments offer typical "American style" fruits and vegetables along with ethnic varieties, much of which will be at lower prices that your local American behemoth offers.

You'll also find many products you already use on these markets' shelves (think of soy sauce, pastas and grains, vinegars, and more).

The bonus is that you'll also find easy ways to introduce world flavors into typical American-style family dinners with minimal "eee-ewww! what's that?" reactions from pint-sized picky diners.

A beginner's guide to ethnic market shopping

If you're not familiar with ethnic markets, don't be nervous. If you love Italian food, start with one of the local Italian delis.

If you've tried and liked Middle Eastern food, you'll find more than half a dozen different markets focused on foods from almost every country in the region - from Afghanistan and Greece to Syria and Turkey.

1. If at all possible, scout ahead. Schedule a brief foray when you're not necessarily in dire need of powdered sumac or fresh tortillas.

2. Take note of the market's overall offerings; you might be surprised to find cases of fresh breads, cookies and other pastries for sale

3. Be sure to check out the meat and seafood departments. You may find some cuts that are unfamiliar; you might also discover familiar cuts at great prices

4. Don't be afraid to ask questions! (Last time I visited a Ranch Market, for instance, a very helpful young woman behind the cheese counter gave me a brief introduction, complete with tasting, to Mexican-style cheeses.)

5. Don't be intimidated by signs or labels in foreign languages (see point 4). While many workers and most customers might speak another language, remember you're all there to shop for something everyone needs. It's a great leveling introduction.

Wow. Have I EVER got…

Well. I got more than milk.

That's because the tiny Milk 'n' More store carries a variety of dairy-based goods.

This is excellent news if you live around Tempe, or commute with any regularity to the west ends of Broadway Road.

Milk 'n' More is, first, a convenience store. It was originally intended to provide milk truck drivers and the other plant workers at United Dairy Farmers big processing operations right there south of Broadway with a place to find a quick lunch.

But it grew (just a little). Now, you can find milk, cream, butter and cheese, too - all Arizona made.

The Arizona cheddar and cheddar with jalapenos is tart, creamy and (with jalapenos) with a small, but distinct bite.

The Arizona jack cheese is firm, not rubbery, and with a pleasant tang.

The store also sells butter, both "regular" and "European grade." The European grade butter has a sweet, clean taste, without an "oily" component. The regular is, well, butter.

Prices at Milk 'n' More for milk and cheese are slightly under supermarket prices; butter prices are in line with current market pricing.

The store is open at 2008 S. Hardy (Hard/Broadway) from 6 a.m. until 6 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. Besides dairy and lunch products, there is also a small gift selection for sale (cows! cows on mugs! cows on pins! cows on…you get the picture).

Oh! Wait, there's more. For all you cheeseheads out there…Milk 'n' More sells bags of cheese curds. On Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, there are free samples.

I'm not from Wisconsin. Never ate a cheese curd. But later this week….I'll let you know.

Shopping Mekong

It sure looks like a variant of an American supermarket, perhaps of the discount genre.

The minute you get past the cashier barrier, though, you know you're in foreign territory.

Maybe that's why you've hesitated to shop at Mekong Market.

After all, if you're just interested in throwing together a little Americanized stir fry, you're likely to find just about all you need to your larger local supermarket.

But if you really love exploring ethnic cuisines, and if you want to add a huge new dimension to your family dinners without resorting to going out or foraging take out…ya gotta try this.

This region has dozens of ethnic markets that can give you not just different tastes on your table - but a little taste of other cultures, too.

Some of the largest food and gift markets around offer delicacies and pantry staples from every corner of the Asian world.

Mekong's not a mammoth market, but it's laid out in a fashion that's vaguely related to what Americans tend to think of as a "supermarket."

First, those huge bins of fruit and vegetables in front are just major indicators of produce specials. Last week there was also a large display of immense golden pigs and apples - it's new year's, after all!

Step inside. Take a minute to get used to the atmosphere. Asian muzak is not necessarily familiar to American ears, but it's a good reminder this is a different kind of store.

Once beyond the cashier line barrier, move to the right for frozen foods, meats and seafood.

The meat and seafood department straddles frozen and fresh; everything is labeled, and you will know most of the seafood, fish and meats.

(Okay - you probably don't use duck tongues, chicken feet or even snail meat every day. But neither do most Asian cooks, and if you have the right recipe, you just might try these in your own kitchen.

Next to the meat and seafood department, you'll find the freezer cases. These aren't labeled, aside from specific food items, so you'll want to browse a little. There's only a small section devoted to desserts or sweets, but it includes examples from India, China, Indonesia, the Philippines, Thailand and Japan.

Against the back wall are refrigerated cases, holding eggs, tofu, noodles, kimchi in several versions, and more.

Aisles are stacked more than 10 feet up, but the highest shelves are clearly the in-store warehouse system.

These are organized, but not in the way you might expect. We'll explore these more carefully in a next post, when we'll also get to the produce and prepared food section at Mekong Market.

Mekong Market’s daily “specials”

Mekong Market’s a stellar addition to the East Valley’s options in ethnic marketing.

Located at the heart of Mekong Plaza, the market can be a tad more intimidating than mega-store LeeLee’s, just a few miles directly south on Dobson Road.

There must be virtually no warehouse area for this supermarket: Aisles are narrow, and feel cavernous since they’re stocked nearly ten feet high.

But you can be sure you’ll find some real treasures, especially if you take a few minutes and review the produce offerings displayed just in front of the market’s entrance.

These mammoth displays sit just in front of the Plaza’s central entrance, and are clearly intended to lure shoppers with both common and uncommon fruits and vegetables.

Last summer, for instance, among the half-dozen or so usually in place, one immense carton held yams and sweet potatoes, while another had both dark red and Queen Anne cherries at insanely low prices.

More recently, persimmons and dragon fruit have been featured.

And dammit – I wish I’d purchased that dragon fruit. Never had it. Need to sample it – and it’s still available over in the produce section inside the store.

But I waited – so instead of being able to purchase two for a dollar or so, they’re now available for $2.49 a pound.

Well, heck. Now I need to decide if my curiosity outweighs my frugality.

Check back next week.

Shopping surprises

Right, I know. This is supposed to be a blog that helps you understand the best ways to shop at the many terrific ethnic markets throughout the Phoenix region.

(After all, if you’re interested in food and cooking, the very best way to find ingredients for a real Polish bigos or Greek chicken or bang-bang shrimp is to shop at the Polish, Greek or Asian market.)

But one of the coolest things about shopping at ethnic markets is finding incredible foodstuffs that just might make great little food gifts (if, or course, you can bear to see them leave your own pantry).

So it was that the other day I was in Giado’s World Market picking up some Middle Eastern yogurt (I’ve been buying this for more than a decade and really – the rest of the country’s just now figuring out how terrific this yogurt is? Really, Dannon?)

But as I was speeding toward the dairy cases, (Byblos yogurt, creamy Bulgarian feta…) I came to a quick stop near the honey display. The honey shelves always have a wild array, but what grabbed my attention was a round-ish sort of marmalade jar layered with pistachios, walnuts, cashews, almonds, more pistachios…and honey.

It was beautiful and enticing and I could hardly keep my hands from it. This definitely is going in my bags next time I visit my folks in Western Penna. My mother will love it. Even better, this elegant-looking jar of sweet treats is only $7.99.

In fact, this just may turn up as holiday gifts for a few select friends….

…and I think I’m going to need a jar of this for myself.

(next time for sure - what you will find when you enter Mekong Supermarket)

Pan-Asian

Exploring Mekong Plaza

I love Mekong Plaza (Mesa, on Dobson, between Apache and Broadway). I love its cool, pale marble floors and I love the lions near the entrance and I love the soothing splash of water inside.

It is a cool space, scented with the notion of lemongrass and ginger and hot, spicy oil.

And I love Mekong Supermarket.

True, not LeeLee’s, but then, it would be hard to come up to that mammoth. I love LeeLee’s, too, but Mekong is like the cool neighbor down the block, while LeeLee’s is the super-cosmopolitan world traveler. One with a gigantic backpack of goods and groceries.

What I also love about Mekong are the really friendly and chatty Hispanic guys behind the butcher and seafood counters at Mekong. Essay a “Como esta?” after “Hola!” and they will tell you all you want to know about the day’s offerings (they’ll do this in English, by the way, so not to worry you’ll need a translator!).

Mekong features a good array of seafood and fresh fish, much of it cleaned and prepped, more offered in its entirety. There’s also an extensive frozen selection. True – this isn’t an array as boggling as the giant’s, but there’s more than enough to satisfy most kitchen needs and then some.

I’ll be heading toward Mekong later, and will have few more details about the fish and meat counters. Then we’ll move ahead to explore the produce section and all those intriguing aisles stacked 10 or 12 feet high.

Real olives from a Middle Eastern grocery

The other day, I was on my way to pick up some (real) Greek yogurt at Giado World Foods, southeast corner Dobson and Elliott in Chandler, when I remembered that I also wanted to get some olives for a company dinner.

Luckily, I also remembered that Giado’s has a lovely selection of excellent Middle-Eastern style olives.

These olives are not too much like the ones available at the popular supermarket “olive bars.” To me, those seem to be heavy on the extra-marinated olives and olive salad presentations.

Nothing wrong with these (and they are very practical from the supermarket’s view, since the addition of more oil and some vinegar assures nearly unlimited shelf life).

But that little addition of more spices and a little vinegar, tasty as it can be, can sometimes mask less-than-stellar olives.

Not so at Giado’s. There are dried, cured black olives, slightly smoky, a little bitter and a little chewy.

There are large, purple/black kalamatas. There are plain, cracked green olives.

And there are the spiced olives. There were two kinds the day I was there, one with preserved lemon, onion and hot peppers, and the other just with preserved lemon.

I bought kalamatas, and both of the spiced green variety.

They’re wonderful. The kalamatas are tender, fruity, not too salty. The green olives with preserved lemon have a nice, bright citrus note, while those with the hot pepper have the same great citrus hit, seem a little saltier, with a slow heat that comes just at the top of your throat.

Even better? These olives come at just the right price. The kalamatas are $4.99 a pound, while the green olives come in around $3.50 a pound. Compare that with the $8.99 per pound at your local supermarket.